The Dapper Dan-Gucci story has reached peak catharsis. Twenty-five years after luxury labels sued his famed Harlem boutique out of business, the king of New York tailoring returns to his dominion with the support of one of the very brands that brought him down in the past. Gucci has worked with Dapper Dan to reinstate his legendary Harlem atelier, opening on Lenox Avenue in January 2018.

THE BACKSTORY

Dapper Dan will always mainly be known as hip-hop’s preferred couturier of the 80s and 90s, with a past that’s the stuff of legends. Every major player in entertainment and fans alike passed through the doors of his eponymous 125th Street boutique, looking to be outfitted in the finest bespoke pieces made from bootleg luxury label fabrics. As A$AP Ferg, whose father worked for Dapper Dan in the 80s, put it: “He taught luxury brands to use their designs in a much more effective way. Dap curated hip-hop culture.” Which didn't and doesn't sit well with luxe labels, of course. As writer Myles Johnson analysed: "Even when black people attempt to reclaim and find celebration from the industry that excludes and exploits them, there's still no having for the black creative. Whiteness has a severe problem with exchange, mostly because the intention is solely to dominate culturally and profit economically. There is no room for soul and humanity, which is where the sharing takes place." After the closing of his store, Dapper Dan went underground and started creating looks for private customers. His upcoming 2018 memoir is set to reveal more about this time.

THE STORE

The new 4,700 square foot Dapper Dan store is a gorgeous and sumptuous-looking affair, draped in Gucci fabrics, raw materials, prints, patches and hardware that Dapper Dan is now legally able to incorporate in his own designs. Furniture is plush, velvet Gucci Home screens contrast beautifully to the authentic décor and brightly-hued walls lined with archive photography. On the ground level of this historic 1887 brownstone, which used to house a private girl’s school, you’ll find a storefront. On the floor above there’s a parlour and production facility. This boutique is a unique conclusion to a long-lasting tale of luxury brands struggling with an out-of-touch mindset – particularly involving black culture. Where initially came outright indignation or blatant appropriation, now slowly trickles through a deeper understanding of the economic and cultural impact people of colour have always had, evidenced by collaborations like Louis Vuitton x Supreme to erstwhile plaintiff Gucci finally embracing Dapper Dan. Took them long enough. 

THE DRAMA

If your memory is fuzzy: this all kicked into high gear with the Resort 2018 Gucci show, in which one particular balloon-sleeved logo outfit was clearly plagiarizing a Dapper Dan “Louis Vuitton” creation famously modelled by Olympic runner Diane Dixon in 1989. Gucci first admitted it to being an homage, which provoked further ire and prompted the Italian luxury giant and creative director Alessandro Michele to ramp things up. After an introduction between both parties brokered by Stephen Stoute, former music executive and current CEO and founder of marketing firm Translation, Gucci decided to feature the legend tailor in an ad campaign for AW17, shot by Glen Luchford. An atypical and savvy move from a house that has seemed to learn from its past leaders’ errors.

THE FUTURE

In a statement, Dapper Dan noted: "Everyone paid homage to Dapper Dan, but no one ever paid him. The people have spoken and Gucci has listened. Nothing has been more significant in the Harlem cultural scene than Alessandro and Gucci coming to Harlem and partnering with Dapper Dan."

The designer, full name Daniel Day, also had most insightful things to say about this offbeat relationship during the Business of Fashion’s “BOF Voices” summit: “[The Gucci partnership] sends a message to people of colour that we can finally do this. It takes another revolution within [and] among people of colour to expand on that again.”

The new Dapper Dan Atelier will take appointments as of January 2018 (so make haste to book a spot). Gucci’s AW18 collection will also feature a worldwide Dapper Dan capsule collection releasing next year. Listen to the Business of Fashion talk with Dapper Dan here.