How Pharrell Is Making LV a Cultural Brand & Platform, True to Promise

“Please call me. The time has come”.

Pharrell Williams duly returned LVMH scion Alexandre Arnault’s text and a few months later, the industry bore witness to a new menswear era at Vuitton. Pharrell grandly debuted his SS24 collection on the Pont Neuf late in June, hot-stamping Paris Fashion Week with joy, exuberance, grandiose power and a dedication to human dressing.

Pharrell sees his role at LV as that of an ‘eternal student’, ‘pupil king’ and consumer-first designer. He has a wealth of creativity and connections that few creative directors can source from (even with a formal education). And few other better understand the impact and platform you build by creating a cultural brand. It’s why he put representatives of his creative past, present and future front and centre. It’s why he cast major names like Pusha T alongside rising minds prodigious photographer Gabriel Moses and vets like Stefano Pilati (of Random Identities, ex-YSL creative director) on the runway. And why he spotlit, once more, fire-voiced gospel choirs that exalted the audience with words of ‘Joy (Unspeakable)’ - choreo’d by Belgian supertalent Nick Coutsier. His entire artistic career, Pharrell has made it a point to collaborate and platform others. Case in point: our very own Dominique Nzeyimana was only recently appointed jury member for the Black Ambition Prize supporting Black and Hispanic innovators, founded by Pharrell Williams and led by Felecia Hatcher.

The attention was and is there, but what of the fashion? Namechecking his hometown of Virginia on the show invites, Williams infused his first outing with inspirations sourced from both the esotheric - like the sun and concepts of passion and opportunity - as well as the clear-cut classic, remixing iconic LV codes like the damier chessboard into a ‘Damoflage’ alloy.

The guest list? A plus plus, with a front row to make the Oscars and Grammys keel over retching in a ditch: Beyoncé, Jay-Z and Zendaya flanked by the Arnaults, Rihanna & A$AP, Naomi, Kim K, Lenny Kravitz, Kelly Rowland, The Smiths (not the Morrissey type), Lebron James, Yoon Ahn, Tyler The Creator, Takashi Murakami, Busta Rhymes, Megan Thee Stallion, Maluma, Skepta, Tobe and Fat Nwigwe, John Boyega, Jackson Wang and so many more.

Names that cannot be uttered without speaking that of Virgil Abloh, who first unlocked the house and shared the keys with his global community of dreamers. “This moment is dedicated to the giant before me. To our brother in spirit”, Pharrell wrote in the show notes.

We should also speak the name of Dapper Dan, who shared his own take on this cultural milepost and provided the foundation of it all to begin with. Now let’s delve deeper into the moment.

THE ACCESSORIES

MEN’S SPRING-SUMMER 2024 FASHION SHOW © Louis Vuitton – All rights reserved

Bread, meet butter. Accessories make LV go ‘round and there was no shortage of pieces to wishlist. After all, there can be no cultural brand without an actual brand at the core. The jewellery was opulent and styled to perfection. The ‘Super Zoom’ sunglasses harked back to Pharrell’s uproarious Tiffany shades and reminded us how deep his history with LV eyewear is. Near 20 years after his first Vuitton sunglasses link-up via Marc Jacobs, those OG pieces now fetch up to 8,5K a pair via resellers. However, the leather goods were obviously where it’s at. Buttery calf-leather, slouching Speedy’s furthered rumours that LV is moving away from canvas and were dipped in primary colours inspired by Canal Street counterfeits (the circle is truly complete). Oversized Alma’s were only just outshone by a pearl-and-crystal-encrusted damier specimen toted around by Stefano Pilati. Reissuing the MM Paris-designed iconic orange shopping bags in leather isn’t a very new concept but it remains super effective. These focal accessories, regardless if they speak to you or not, are shaping up to be future auction pieces so if you’ve got the coin now, there should be no hesitating.

THE CLOTHES

Reflecting all the eras and facets of Pharrell’s personal style and coveted wardrobe, this debut honed in on everything from dandy tailoring and petite caban coats to Billionaire Boys Club-leaning varsity pieces and ultraluxe croc outerwear. Though this is officially menswear, Pharrell made it a point to stress he creates for humans. For me, the denim was a particular standout. It was checkered, embroidered (by lauded artist Henry Taylor), tailored, blown up and seen cosplaying as classic LV styles like their streaky ‘Epi’ leather. The LV x Nigo font spread across an oversized rugby top and Pharrell’s signature shorts were styled with twee Mary Janes and ruffle socks. 8-bit Atari prints provided all that luxury TikTokers will need to stand out on the FYP next season. Pusha T and Malice (= Clipse) stunted in painted leather twin looks. Seventy-six outfits hammered down one message. It’s all LoVe. And it will sell for a pretty penny soon.

THE INSTAGRAM PAGE

Another prime piece in the cultural brand puzzle is the arrival of the @skateboard IG page - which opens the atelier doors of Louis V to fashion fiends worldwide. The account showcases the fittings, back-and-forth texts, teamwork, laptop grinding and pow-wows it requires to pull off work at this scale, making the industry a little less opaque - in the Abloh tradition - one post at a time.

All images courtesy of LVMH / Louis Vuitton

Styling: Cactus & Matthew Henson
Makeup: Pat McGrath
Nails: Dawn Sterling
Hair: Kareem Belghiran