It’s a rarity to be able to physically enter into a designer’s imagination. You can now do just that at MoMu – Fashion Museum Antwerp as the ‘Jan-Jan Van Essche – KHAYAL’ expo slides its doors open. Until June 8 2025, you can get close to the cult Antwerp designer’s SS25 collection ‘KHAYAL’, learn the layered stories behind his working community of artisans and fully immerse yourself in the sounds, sights and scent of the Jan-Jan Van Essche world. It’s an invitation to experience his design philosophy past and future as you take a beat, in the now.
THE SHAPE OF FREEDOM
Those who’ve been following us are familiar with the name Jan-Jan Van Essche. If this is your first encounter: Jan-Jan is a celebrated Antwerp-based designer and graduate of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts (2003), who creates garments inspired by global culture. His designs prioritise openness, fluidity and freedom, creating silhouettes for genderless elegance. Since launching his label in 2010 with ‘COLLECTION#1 – YUKKURI’ (Japanese for ‘take it easy’) and opening the pioneering Atelier Solarshop with partner Pietro Celestina, Jan-Jan's work has grown in demand worldwide. Each day, he makes fans out of everyone from Tokyo style savants and Antwerp fashion loyalists to Oscar winner Barry Jenkins (listen to The Most podcast to find out more about that link-up) – as his label continues to invite reinterpretation while embracing the body's natural shapes.
INNER SANCTUM, 360°
The ‘KHAYAL’ exhibit lays out the inner sanctum of patterns, fibre choices and ethos behind a Jan-Jan collection. It showcases 10 silhouettes, reflecting the design process, starting from materials - including Belgian-made knitwear in collaboration with Cousy. Known for subtle layering, balanced proportions and expert pattern work, Jan-Jan’s style is also codified by natural pigments and a penchant for fermented indigo (“A dye so natural you could drink it”). ‘KHAYAL’ (Arabic, Farsi and Urdu for ‘Imagination’) is a 360-vision: recycled wood by Buurman Antwerp frames the silhouette sculptures cleverly made by artist Rune Tuerlinckx from reclaimed materials with heads of dried calabash gourds. There’s a custom soundscape by Granvat revealing the voices of artisans and a scent profile by Santa Maria Novella in the air, hand-sifted desert-like sand on the floor and vintage fabrics flowing gently around the space. As you wrap up or gear up for another year, make some time to take this all in - it’s nothing short of a reset.
JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE - ‘KHAYAL’
MoMu - Fashion Museum Antwerp
December 7 2024 - June 8 2025
Guest curator: Jan-Jan Van Essche
in collaboration with Pietro Celestina and MoMu curator Romy Cockx
Graphic design: Jelle Jespers
Watch the SS25 film by frequent collaborator of the house, Ramy Moharam Fouad, HERE.
Get your MoMu tickets HERE.
Listen to Jan-Jan Van Essche on The Most podcast HERE.
Header image: Jan-Jan Van Essche, ‘Khayal’ Spring-Summer 2025, © Jan-Jan Van Essche, models: Lisa Luka @ De Boekers & Nizar Saleh, photography: Pietro Celestina, graphic design: Jelle Jespers