Ahead of Raf Simons’ debut show as Chief Creative Officer for Calvin Klein on February 10th, the brand has elected to let us in on their first new wave, dubbed ‘By Appointment’. Calvin Klein’s New York celebrity by-appointment atelier will now become a line on its own, no longer just catering to the wealthy and famous but acting as an open bespoke service for all, from custom traditional embroidery to modern tailoring. A fresh take on an established tradition, which seems aptly foreboding. Shot and styled by Raf’s trusted team of Willy Vanderperre + Olivier Rizzo, the first drop of lookbook images (named ‘CKBA 1-14’) zooms in on Americana iconography. In a press statement, Simons notes ‘Calvin Klein is not only about iconic underwear and jeans – it’s about so much more’. In the images, every decade of American women’s fashion, from the 20s until today, are paid homage to in the image of cheerleaders, majorettes and debutantes in handcrafted Calvin. It appears that everything the Dior couture experience instilled in Raf Simons has been artfully transposed on a new all-American canvas. Like a stretching exercise for the atelier, the looks range from a made-to-measure embellished tee and velvet cheer uniform to beautifully precious couture. On the brand’s website, the images are juxtaposed with pairs of Calvin Klein briefs, symbolising American pragmatism and its pop icons. Creative Director Pieter Mulier also notes that the concept of ‘By Appointment’ is driven by character and about women feeling empowered in what they’re wearing, a fitting message considering millions of women worldwide were marching simultaneously at the time of the release. Given how the brand’s originator has no qualms about dressing the new First Lady, it’ll remain to be seen however whether Raf will join the ranks of designers stepping in to style the new occupants of 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue, though they could easily now book their own appointment via ByAppointment@ck.com. The cast, selected for their individuality and personalities, includes model favourites such as Raf’s muse Julia Nobis, Natalie Westling, Abbey Lee, Lineisy Montero, Jamie Bochert and the prodigious Millie Bobby Brown. Snatching up Young Eleven for her first major fashion collaboration was undoubtedly a major coup. With heads turning blue from breaths bated, the industry is now fully abuzz with excitement for this new era, or as T Magazine's Alexander Fury puts it:
Posted by Alexander Fury (@alexanderfury) on 22 Jan 2017 at 1:40 PST
Pierre Debusschere is also here for it: Appointments in the New York atelier will be available as from April 1st 2017 via the aforementioned e-mail address, so your summer NYC trip might need to get bumped up if you can manage to schedule a meeting, since there is no word yet on potential international outposts of the service. Subject line: “Will Raf and Pieter be there too?” Photography: Willy VanderperreStyling: Olivier RizzoHair: Anthony TurnerMake-up: Lucia Pieroni Models (top to bottom): Millie Bobby Brown, Samantha Ellsworth, Lulu, Kiki Willems, Mica Argañaraz, Julia Nobis, Jamie Bochert, Abbey Lee, Selena Forrest, Tessa Bruinsma, Natalie Westling, Lineisy Montero